Some cities have a way of immediately impressing you. Others make you feel like you belong there. Edinburgh managed to do both, and that's probably the best explanation I can offer for why I fell so completely head over heels for the place.
Scotland was part of a larger trip that took me through Ireland and eventually down to England for a family wedding in Bath. The wedding was the fixed point on the calendar. Everything else was an opportunity to turn a necessary trip across the Atlantic into a proper vacation, and spending a full week in Edinburgh turned out to be one of the best decisions I made.
I arrived knowing surprisingly little about Scotland beyond what I'd learned from history books and seen in movies and television. I wasn't carrying a list of expectations that the country needed to meet, and I certainly wasn't prepared for how quickly Edinburgh would start feeling like a place I belonged.
The architecture was spectacular. The city was full of rich and fascinating history. The food and drink scene was excellent, and there seemed to be something fascinating waiting around every corner. But the thing that ultimately won me over was the people.
Everywhere I went, I encountered friendly, welcoming Scots who seemed genuinely happy to talk. Bartenders, restaurant staff, drivers, shopkeepers. The conversations came easily, and that warmth made a new city feel remarkably comfortable. Coming from the Northeast, where you tend to carry a certain amount of urban wariness with you, there's something wonderful about finding a place where you can lower your guard, relax, and simply enjoy being there.
It didn't hurt that Edinburgh is ridiculously beautiful.
The city rises and falls across steep hills, with imposing stone buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, expansive views, and Edinburgh Castle looking down over everything from its perch on an ancient volcanic rock. It's a place that rewards wandering and exploring, even when that wandering turns into an unexpected cardiovascular workout.
We also happened to arrive during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, something I hadn't deliberately planned around. The city was absolutely electric, with performers, visitors, and festival activity everywhere. It was busy, certainly, but I never felt that the crowds overwhelmed the experience. We had no trouble enjoying restaurants, finding places to drink, or doing the sightseeing we'd come to do.
In fact, I loved every bit of that energy.
But what made this trip especially memorable wasn't just exploring Edinburgh's famous landmarks. It was getting to spend an entire week learning new things, discovering neighborhood favorites, and occasionally stumbling into wild experiences I never could have anticipated.
Stockbridge: Living Like a Local
Where you stay can have a profound impact on how you feel about a destination. I've learned that the hard way in cities where choosing a hotel in the busiest tourist district meant spending most of my time making my way through crowds mostly comprised of bachelorette parties rather than getting a true sense of the place.
For Edinburgh, we rented a one-bedroom apartment in Stockbridge, a residential neighborhood north of the city center. And I absolutely loved everything about that neighborhood.
The apartment had all the essentials we needed for a comfortable week: a well-equipped kitchen, a living room, a good-sized bedroom, and a bathroom with excellent water pressure, which is never something I take for granted when traveling. Better still, the kitchen and bathroom overlooked the Water of Leith, and the gentle babbling of the river below through the open windows was a constant, soothing background soundtrack.
It was peaceful, comfortable, and felt like somewhere people actually lived rather than somewhere designed exclusively for tourists.
Stockbridge itself has a distinctly village-like atmosphere, with handsome stone buildings, independent shops, local markets, cafés, and neighborhood pubs. The Water of Leith runs through the area, giving it an appealing contrast between urban living and little pockets of natural beauty. It's the kind of neighborhood where going out to pick up groceries or stop for a drink can become an enjoyable part of the vacation rather than a chore.
We had a local supermarket, convenient little shops, restaurants, and bars within easily walkable reach. After a day of sightseeing, coming back to Stockbridge felt like returning home.
There was, however, one little detail I failed to appreciate when booking the apartment.
Edinburgh has hills. Serious hills.
Stockbridge sits lower than much of the historic city center, so walking toward Princes Street, Old Town, or Edinburgh Castle means going uphill. And while I didn’t expect Edinburgh to be perfectly flat, I had absolutely no idea what I'd signed up for.
At first we walked everywhere. Getting toward Princes Street was manageable, but continuing toward the Royal Mile and the castle meant more climbing. After a couple of days of this, we reached a very reasonable conclusion: enough of that.
We started taking Ubers.
I have absolutely no regrets. Edinburgh is wonderfully walkable in terms of distance, but walkable doesn't necessarily mean effortless, especially when the destination is perched high above the neighborhood where you're staying. Public buses are another option worth investigating, although we found rideshares convenient for getting directly where we wanted to go.
Would I stay in Stockbridge again? In a heartbeat. I'd happily rent the exact same apartment if it were available.
The only thing I'd change would be surrendering to Uber a lot sooner.
Edinburgh Castle: History Above the City
You can't spend much time in Edinburgh without becoming fascinated by its castle. It dominates the skyline, sitting high above the surrounding streets and reminding you that this city has centuries of complicated history built directly into its landscape.
We booked a skip-the-line guided walking tour, and I think that was absolutely the right way to experience it.
Our guide was named Alan, which was funny enough, as that’s my name. What made it considerably funnier was that he looked remarkably like me. Hair color, beard, clothing, scally cap, messenger bag. My traveling companion couldn't stop laughing wide-eyed at the resemblance, and yes, I have photographic evidence.
Once we got past the novelty of meeting my Scottish doppelgänger, the tour was fantastic.
Near the entrance, the statues of William Wallace and Robert the Bruce introduced us to some of Scotland's most important historical figures. Our guide talked about their roles in the struggle for Scottish independence and, memorably, the liberties Hollywood took with their stories in Braveheart.
Robert the Bruce, for example, didn't betray Wallace at the Battle of Falkirk as the movie suggests. He went on to become King of Scots in 1306, and his victory at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314 became a defining moment in Scotland's struggle for independence.
That's exactly why I appreciate a good guided tour. I can look at a statue or an impressive old building on my own, but having somebody connect it to the people, politics, and events behind it makes the experience infinitely more meaningful.
The castle itself is a sprawling collection of historic buildings, fortifications, courtyards, and exhibits, each revealing a different chapter of Scottish history we’d never have learned without Alan’s excellent running dialogue to explain their significance.
We saw Mons Meg, an enormous fifteenth-century siege cannon capable of firing massive stone projectiles, and the surprisingly touching Dog Cemetery, where military mascots and officers' beloved pets were laid to rest.
We also visited the Royal Palace to see the Honours of Scotland, the historic crown, sceptre, and sword associated with the Scottish monarchy, displayed alongside the Stone of Destiny.
One of the most memorable stops for me, though, was the Prisons of War exhibition.
The castle held prisoners from several countries during conflicts in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, including American sailors captured during the War of Independence. Walking through those old prison spaces, with their reconstructed sleeping arrangements and evidence of the people who had been held there, was sobering.
And then there was a particularly remarkable detail: an early American flag carved into a wooden door by a prisoner.
As an American standing inside a Scottish fortress, seeing that little piece of history was extraordinary. It was one of those details I hadn't expected to encounter and one I still remember years later.
Beyond the exhibitions, the views from the castle are spectacular. Edinburgh's elevated geography gives you sweeping perspectives across the city, and the castle's position makes it easier to understand how the whole place developed around its dramatic landscape.
I strongly recommend taking a guided tour rather than simply wandering around. The castle is impressive on its own, but understanding what you're looking at makes it much more rewarding.
Beneath the Royal Mile: The Real Mary King's Close
If Edinburgh Castle offers a look at the city's grand political and military history, The Real Mary King's Close introduces you to a very different side of its past.
This guided attraction takes visitors beneath the Royal Mile into a series of preserved streets and rooms that once formed part of everyday Edinburgh. What had originally been open-air streets and homes became enclosed beneath later construction as the city changed and expanded.
It's a fascinating place, and a little unsettling.
Unlike a haunted-house attraction, Mary King's Close is primarily about the people who lived and worked in these cramped spaces, often under conditions that would be almost unimaginable today.
Our guide was dressed in period clothing and portrayed a historical resident, although I have to admit that discovering our seventeenth-century Edinburgh storyteller had an American accent remarkably similar to mine was a slightly unexpected twist. Apparently you can travel thousands of miles to Scotland and still end up listening to somebody who sounds like they're from Connecticut.
Accent aside, the history was absorbing.
We explored the old rooms and passageways, learning about the realities of life in the seventeenth century, including the lack of sanitation, close living quarters, disease, and the devastating impact of plague.
One memorable stop was the former workshop of saw maker Andrew Chesney, where the surviving features help illustrate the everyday working lives of the people who inhabited the close.
Another was Annie's Room, a space filled with toys and dolls left by visitors. The tradition grew out of a story involving a young girl believed by some to haunt the room. Whatever you make of the supernatural explanation, it's an unexpectedly poignant sight.
The tour also explores the legends that have grown around Edinburgh's plague history, including the popular story that infected residents were deliberately sealed inside the close. The reality is considerably more complicated than the folklore.
For me, this was the perfect companion to Edinburgh Castle. One attraction introduces the rulers, soldiers, and conflicts that shaped Scotland. The other brings you closer to the ordinary people who lived through the consequences of that history.
Mary King's Close requires a guided visit, and I would recommend reserving a place in advance. It's a distinctive experience, particularly for anyone interested in history that goes beyond kings, battles, and magnificent buildings.
And once you come back above ground, spend time exploring the Royal Mile and surrounding Old Town.
St. Giles' Cathedral, the historic court buildings, university architecture, and the astonishingly picturesque Victoria Street are all part of the experience. We didn't go inside every church or museum, but simply walking through this part of Edinburgh was a pleasure. It always seemed that no matter which way you turned, there was something jaw-dropping to look at.
Victoria Street in particular is worth exploring slowly. Its colorful storefronts, curved layout, independent shops, and dramatic architecture make it one of the city's most memorable streets. We seemed to wander into every shop more than once.
The Scotch Whisky Experience: An Education Worth Drinking To
One of my favorite experiences in Edinburgh was The Scotch Whisky Experience, located near the top of the Royal Mile.
I arrived with what I thought was a reasonable familiarity with Scotch. I'd enjoyed it for years, but most of my experience was limited to familiar brands, including Johnnie Walker and Lagavulin. I knew what I liked, or at least I thought I did.
It turned out there was an entire world of Scotch I knew very little about.
We booked the Gold Tour, which included the introductory guided experience followed by a more substantial tasting of regional single malts. It also came with membership in the Scotch Whisky Appreciation Society.
So, apparently, I'm a card-carrying Scotch aficionado. How cool is that?
The experience begins by explaining how Scotch is made, from its basic ingredients and distillation methods to maturation, blending, and the regional traditions and production choices that help give different Scotch whiskies their distinctive flavors.
But the part that really made an impression on me was the sensory education.
We were given scratch-and-sniff cards designed to illustrate the aromas associated with Scotland's whisky-producing regions. It sounds almost comically simple, but that little card helped make the differences between smoky, fruity, sweet, and other flavor profiles immediately understandable.
I still have mine.
The guides then teach you how to examine a whisky, smell it, and taste it deliberately rather than simply taking a sip and deciding whether you like it.
And here's what surprised me: it worked.
The information wasn't just interesting in the moment. It fundamentally changed how I evaluated Scotch afterward. I discovered that I particularly enjoyed certain Highland and Speyside single malts, styles I'd never really explored before.
One of the Speyside whiskies we tasted was Benriach The Original Ten, which I later found back home and have purchased many times since.
The tour also takes visitors into the spectacular Claive Vidiz Collection, an extraordinary display of thousands of Scotch whisky bottles. Standing among rows and rows of illuminated bottles, some of them remarkably old or rare, is quite a sight.
The Gold Tour continued with a guided comparison of additional regional single malts, allowing us to taste contrasting styles side by side and actually apply what we'd learned.
This wasn't just a pleasant afternoon tasting a selection of fine spirits. It was one of the most useful educational experiences I've ever had while traveling, and the lessons remained with me long after I returned home.
I could devote an entire article to how it changed my relationship with Scotch, but for anyone visiting Edinburgh, my recommendation is straightforward: if you're even remotely interested in whisky or if you’ve never found a whisky you cared for, do this. This could change your relationship with a remarkably varied and complex liquor.
And if your budget allows, consider the more comprehensive tasting rather than the introductory budget option. For me, it was some of the best money I spent on the entire trip.
Eating Your Way Around Edinburgh
Before visiting Scotland, I had no particular expectations about the food. I certainly wasn't expecting Edinburgh to deliver one of the best Mexican meals I'd ever eaten, especially considering how often I've traveled to Mexico.
But that's exactly what happened.
Edinburgh has a surprisingly varied and impressive dining scene, with everything from traditional Scottish pub food to international restaurants that would be worth visiting in just about any city.
And some of my favorite meals were the ones I hadn't expected at all.
Mariachi: Mexican Food in the Middle of Scotland
On Victoria Street, we discovered Mariachi, a cozy Mexican restaurant that ended up delivering one of the most memorable meals of the trip.
We arrived just as they had opened for dinner service, so the restaurant was fairly empty, and the woman serving us was also the owner. She explained that she and her family had emigrated from Mexico to Scotland, which immediately made the restaurant's authenticity a little less mysterious.
The food was outstanding.
And I don't mean outstanding for Mexican food in Scotland. I mean some of the best Mexican food I've ever had, period.
There was something wonderfully unexpected about traveling across the Atlantic, finding myself surrounded by Edinburgh's medieval architecture, and enjoying a Mexican meal that could comfortably stand beside some of my favorites from Mexico itself.
If there's one lesson here, it's not to limit your dining choices to what you assume a destination is supposed to serve. Sometimes the best meal of your Scottish vacation has origins from an ocean away in Mexico.
Sometimes the most memorable meal isn't the fanciest one. Sometimes it's an unforgettable first experience in a basement pub.
Bertie's Proper Fish & Chips
Of course, you should also enjoy some traditional British comfort food while you're there.
Bertie's Proper Fish & Chips, also on Victoria Street, offers a more substantial sit-down experience than the little takeaway chip shop you might imagine.
The restaurant occupies a large, lively space and specializes in the familiar combination of battered fish, chips, and traditional accompaniments. It's an easy recommendation when you want something recognizable, satisfying, and distinctly British without making dinner an elaborate research-driven decision.
And given its location, it fits beautifully into a day spent exploring Old Town.
Chaophraya: Rooftop Thai Dining and a Lesson in Spice
Another standout was Chaophraya, an upscale Thai restaurant with a rooftop setting and wonderful views over Edinburgh.
We'd heard good things about the restaurant and decided to try our luck without a reservation. Somehow, someone had just canceled, and we managed to get a table with a view during the coveted sunset hour.
The setting was spectacular, and the food was excellent. But what I remember most vividly is a slightly ridiculous interaction with our server.
I ordered something spicy.
Our server warned me it was spicy.
Fair enough.
Then he warned me again. And again. He kept offering to bring something else if I couldn't handle the heat.
Now, I love spicy food. I actively seek it out. I'm the person who goes for spicy options immediately after somebody has warned me they're ridiculous. I have dared restaurants to hurt me. Sometimes I’ve regretted that.
After one warning too many, I picked up a red chili pepper that had been served as a garnish on our appetizer, popped it into my mouth, and began chewing while maintaining direct eye contact with him.
"I think I'll manage." Thankfully, that seemed to settle the matter.
I loved the meal, loved the setting, and would absolutely return. If you want to enjoy dinner with amazing sunset castle views, this is the restaurant worth considering, although I'd strongly recommend making a reservation rather than relying on the kind of luck we had.
The Boozy Cow
Not every meal needs to come with a historic backdrop or a panoramic view.
The Boozy Cow offered a completely different atmosphere, with American-style comfort food, burgers, draft beer on tap, a respectable cocktail menu, unique boozy milkshakes, and an energetic, deliberately irreverent personality.
It's the sort of place that works when you've spent hours sightseeing and want something indulgent and fun rather than another carefully planned cultural experience.
Edinburgh is full of history, but there's no requirement that every meal be a history lesson.
The Antiquary Bar: My First Scottish Meat Pie
If I had to single out one establishment that best represents how I felt about Edinburgh, it might be The Antiquary Bar in Stockbridge.
Known locally as The 'Tic, this traditional neighborhood pub was a short walk from our rental, and I absolutely adored it.
The staff were exceptionally friendly. There were excellent Scottish beers on draft. The atmosphere was warm and comfortable, and it felt like somewhere you could happily spend an entire evening without ever looking at the clock.
It's also where I had my first Scottish meat pie.
A hearty meat pie and a locally brewed pint might not sound like the most sophisticated dining experience in the world, but sitting in a welcoming neighborhood pub in Scotland, enjoying exactly that, was as close to perfection as my imagination could conceive of.
The 'Tic became one of those places that anchored our time in Stockbridge. It helped make the neighborhood feel familiar, and it's one of the first places I'd revisit if I returned.
Sometimes the most memorable meal isn't the fanciest one.
Sometimes it's an unforgettable first experience in a basement pub.
Pubs, Cocktails, and the Pleasure of Stopping for a Drink
Edinburgh has no shortage of places to stop in for a drink, and exploring its bars was one of the pleasures of the trip.
We didn't plan elaborate pub crawls or construct evenings around a series of researched locations. We simply stopped into places that looked interesting or happened to be convenient as we explored the city.
My standards for a good bar are fairly straightforward.
I appreciate an excellent draft beer, particularly when I'm somewhere with interesting local breweries. But if a place serves cocktails, I want a cocktail menu that extends beyond overly sweet, fruity concoctions. Or to put it another way, I’m not a fan of boat drinks, no offense to the Parrotheads. Just a personal preference.
Not to put too fine a point on it, but if you give me a well-made Manhattan, Paper Plane, Boulevardier, Rusty Nail, or a Negroni, we're going to get along.
The Antiquary Bar was where I focused on Scottish drafts, but several other establishments delivered excellent cocktails.
The Last Word, also in Stockbridge, was an intimate, atmospheric cocktail bar that made a wonderful neighborhood alternative to the busier drinking spots near the city's major attractions.
Whisky Quay Bar in Old Town was another memorable stop, with a drinks program that stood out for its attention to properly made cocktails and whisky and exceptionally welcoming and friendly staff.
And the Rose & Crown on Rose Street offered a livelier traditional pub atmosphere in a part of the city particularly well suited to wandering between shops, restaurants, and places to drink on a cobblestoned walking path devoid of cars.
What I appreciated most was the variety. One moment you could be in a cozy traditional pub enjoying a Scottish pint, and the next you could find yourself in a sophisticated cocktail bar sipping something spirit-forward and beautifully balanced.
There was no need to choose between experiencing local drinking culture and enjoying the kinds of cocktails I already loved.
There was no need to choose between experiencing local drinking culture and enjoying the kinds of cocktails I already loved.
And because these stops happened naturally while we were exploring, they never felt like another obligation on the itinerary. They were simply part of being in Edinburgh.
Afternoon Tea With Fourteen Chihuahuas
Of all the unusual things I've done while traveling, spending an afternoon drinking tea surrounded by approximately fourteen Chihuahuas ranks pretty high.
We discovered the Edinburgh Chihuahua Café shortly after arriving in Scotland and booked a visit for the following day.
The whole concept sounded wonderfully absurd.
A formal Afternoon Tea, pastries, and a room full of tiny dogs? TAKE MY MONEY.
The experience was considerably more structured than you might expect. Reservation times were strict; guests had to be punctual. The staff gave detailed instructions and rules about interacting with the dogs after we were inside the building. Once the ground rules were established, we were all guided into designated seating with blankets over our laps.
The most important rule was to let the Chihuahuas choose whether they wanted to interact with you.
Rather than chasing the dogs around or picking them up, you sat patiently and allowed them to approach when they felt comfortable. It was surprisingly adorable and calm. The dogs were then introduced into the room one at a time, and clearly had their own personalities and preferences.
Our session had an Alice in Wonderland theme, and the dogs were accordingly dressed in costumes.
Jasmine, dressed as the Caterpillar, selected my lap and spent much of the visit curled up with me.
Eventually she wandered off, and Cleopatra, dressed as the Queen of Hearts, came over to keep me company.
Elsa joined me briefly as well, although apparently I wasn't sufficiently interesting to hold her attention for long.
Between the costumes, the tiny personalities, the tea, and the pastries, the entire afternoon was fucking delightful.
The café sold souvenirs featuring the dogs, so of course I bought a baseball-style ringer T-shirt featuring Jasmine emblazoned on the front in all her glory. The proceeds from the café's merchandise helped support the dogs, which made buying something a no-brainer.
I still wear the shirt on the reg.
Unfortunately, the Chihuahua Café closed its permanent location in 2025, so the exact experience we enjoyed is no longer available as a regularly scheduled attraction.
But the story doesn't end there. The dogs and their community remain active online, and the organization has continued making occasional appearances through special pop-up events, including during the Edinburgh Fringe. If meeting the dogs appeals to you, it's worth following their social accounts for announcements of upcoming events rather than assuming they've disappeared entirely. They haven’t.
I have so many wonderful photographs and videos from our afternoon, and every time I look at them, I remember just how much fun we had. Which brings me to a bit of travel advice I feel strongly about.
When you're exploring somewhere unfamiliar, and you discover an experience that seems ridiculous, don't automatically dismiss it. Sometimes you should run directly toward the absurd.
Those experiences are often the ones you never forget.
Beyond Edinburgh: A Full Day in the Scottish Highlands
I unabashedly fell for Edinburgh, but I also wanted to see something of Scotland beyond its storied capital.
Rather than renting a car and attempting to navigate the Highlands independently, we booked a full-day excursion with The Hairy Coo, a tour company offering guided coach trips through some of Scotland's most spectacular landscapes.
And when I say full day, I mean a FULL day. Thirteen hours.
This isn't a leisurely afternoon excursion. You're getting up early, meeting your coach, spending much of the day on the road, and returning to Edinburgh in the evening after covering an enormous amount of territory.
But it was absolutely worth it.
Our driver and guide was a man named Colin, whose magnificent ginger beard, traditional Scottish kilt, and larger-than-life appearance immediately reminded me of Tormund Giantsbane from Game of Thrones.
If you know the character, you'll understand why that resemblance made such an impression.
Colin was fantastic. He was funny, knowledgeable, engaging, and clearly passionate about Scotland. Throughout the journey via a microphone headset, he gave a running narration, telling stories about Scottish history, legends, landscapes, and the places we were visiting.
On a trip involving so much time aboard a coach, a good guide makes all the difference in the world. Colin managed to make the traveling itself part of the experience rather than something you simply endured between stops.
Highland Cows and the Road North
As we traveled away from Edinburgh, the landscape changed dramatically.
The relatively gentle scenery closer to the city gradually gave way to wooded hills, broad moorlands, dramatic valleys, and the kind of scenery that makes you understand why the Scottish Highlands have been the picturesque backdrop in so many films and television shows.
We traveled through the Trossachs region and stopped along the way, including an opportunity to see Scotland's famous Highland cattle.
The Hairy Coo takes its name from these shaggy, long-horned animals, and seeing them up close was a highlight.
I have an unreasonable number of photographs of two proud parents and their calf. We were provided with vegetables to feed them, which elevated the encounter to another level.
There's something inherently charming about a massive animal with a sweeping fringe covering much of its face. They're wonderfully photogenic, and the chance to see them in their native landscape is one of those distinctly Scottish experiences that shouldn't be missed.
Glencoe: Scotland at Its Most Photogenic
As the journey continued north, we passed through Rannoch Moor and into Glencoe, where the scenery became truly spectacular.
The valley is surrounded by enormous, steep-sided mountains, with rugged ridges rising above the road and broad stretches of open landscape extending between them.
The famous Three Sisters are especially striking, and we stopped to take photographs and appreciate the scale of the place.
But Glencoe is more than a beautiful landscape.
It's also the site of the 1692 massacre of members of Clan MacDonald, a dark event in Scottish history that Colin narrated as we traveled through the area.
That combination of breathtaking scenery and complicated history was one of the recurring themes of the entire trip. Scotland is extraordinarily beautiful, but much of that beauty exists alongside stories of conflict, hardship, bloodshed, and political struggle.
Hearing those stories while actually standing in the places where they happened gave the landscape a much deeper meaning.
Loch Ness: No Monsters, Plenty of Scenery
Eventually we reached Fort Augustus, a village at the southern end of Loch Ness.
This was one of the major stops of the day, with time to get something to eat, explore the village, and enjoy an optional boat excursion onto the famous loch.
We chose the cruise.
Loch Ness is an enormous body of water surrounded by hills, with dark depths that have helped sustain its reputation as the possible home of a particularly elusive monster.
The boat trip gives you a very different perspective from simply standing on the shore. You're out on the water, surrounded by the landscape, looking across an expanse that feels much larger than you might have imagined.
There were even sonar displays aboard the boat, adding a little extra fun to the inevitable search for something mysterious beneath the surface.
For the record, we did not see Nessie.
I know. Disappointing. Personally? I was inconsolable.
But we did have a terrific time, nonetheless.
A Moving Memorial and the Journey Home
On the return journey, we stopped at the Commando Memorial near Spean Bridge.
The monument commemorates the commandos who trained in the Highlands during the Second World War, and its bronze figures stand against a magnificent mountain backdrop.
It was a particularly solemn stop after so much sightseeing, a reminder that this landscape has been connected to events extending far beyond Scottish history alone.
The journey south continued through more Highland scenery, including the Cairngorms region, with additional stops to stretch our legs, grab a snack, use the facilities, and take in the surroundings.
By the time we returned to Edinburgh, we'd spent the majority of the day aboard a bus. But between the scenery, the stops, and Colin's running commentary, it never felt like time wasted.
Would I recommend giving up an entire day of a weeklong Edinburgh vacation for this experience?
Absolutely.
If you have a week in Scotland's capital, you can comfortably devote one day to seeing the Highlands without sacrificing the city's major attractions.
And if you don't want the responsibility of planning a lengthy road trip, driving unfamiliar roads, possibly on the opposite side you know how to drive on, or arranging a series of overnight stops, a guided coach excursion is an excellent alternative.
You won't experience the Highlands as thoroughly as you would on a dedicated multi-day visit. But you'll get an unforgettable introduction, and you may find yourself wanting to return for a longer trip.
I certainly did.
Planning Your Own Edinburgh Visit
A lot depends on how much time you have and what kind of traveler you are.
For me, a full week was ideal. Edinburgh has more than enough history, food, culture, shopping, parks, and unusual experiences to fill seven days without feeling repetitive, unless you want it to. I certainly could see hitting some spots more than once, like The ‘Tic.
And a week gives you the freedom to slow down.
You can spend an afternoon exploring Old Town without constantly checking the clock. You can return to a neighborhood pub you particularly enjoyed. You can devote a day to the Highlands and still have plenty of time to discover the city.
Most importantly, you can begin to establish the little routines that make a destination feel familiar.
Edinburgh has more than enough history, food, culture, shopping, parks, and unusual experiences to fill seven days without feeling repetitive.
If I only had three days, I'd concentrate on the experiences that most clearly distinguish Edinburgh.
I'd book a guided tour of Edinburgh Castle, explore The Real Mary King's Close, and visit The Scotch Whisky Experience. I'd also devote time to wandering Old Town, Victoria Street, and the Royal Mile, with evenings spent enjoying good restaurants and pubs.
With a week, I'd add time in Stockbridge, shopping around Princes Street, more relaxed exploration, and a Highlands excursion.
I'd also leave some room for unexpected discoveries. You don't need to schedule every hour to have a memorable vacation.
In fact, I'd argue that doing so can make it harder to enjoy the things you never knew you wanted to experience.
Visiting During the Edinburgh Fringe
We happened to visit in August during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, one of the city's busiest periods.
I hadn't arranged the trip specifically for the festival, and we didn't build our itinerary around attending performances. But I loved the energy it brought to the city.
The streets were busy and lively, with the atmosphere of a massive cultural celebration unfolding all around us.
Despite the crowds, we had a surprisingly easy time enjoying Edinburgh. We found places to eat and drink without major difficulty, and we were able to take part in the tours and activities we'd planned. That could be luck, but I suspect it’s more likely Edinburgh’s excellent infrastructure being able to handle the stress test that is its peak tourism season.
That was my experience, though, and I wouldn't assume the same flexibility for every traveler.
If you're visiting during Fringe, book your accommodation as early as practical. I'd also reserve major attractions, specialty experiences, and any restaurant where a particular table or view is important to you.
You can leave neighborhood wandering, casual pub visits, and ordinary shopping more flexible.
If the festival itself isn't a major attraction for you, Edinburgh is certainly worth considering at other times of the year. A quieter autumn visit could offer an entirely different experience, with cooler weather and fewer festival crowds.
Just remember that Scotland's weather and daylight hours change considerably with the seasons, especially if you're planning long days outdoors or excursions beyond the city.
Getting Around and Booking Experiences
Edinburgh's historic center is compact enough that walking is often practical, but you shouldn't underestimate its terrain.
If you're staying in a lower-lying neighborhood like Stockbridge, walking toward the castle or Royal Mile can involve some substantial climbs. Comfortable shoes are essential, and there's absolutely no shame in using public transportation or rideshares to avoid exhausting yourself before you even reach an attraction. Remember, you’re on vacation and getting your steps in is a bonus, not a requirement.
I learned that one the hard way.
Also remember that historic streets, cobblestone roads, steep stairways, and uneven surfaces can make certain areas more demanding than the distances on Google Maps suggest.
I would prioritize guided tours at the major historical attractions, because the knowledge of the guides will make the experience so much more worthwhile.
At Edinburgh Castle, our guide helped connect an enormous amount of history to the places we were actually standing in. At Mary King's Close, guided storytelling was central to understanding the buried streets and the difficult lives of the people who inhabited them.
The Scotch Whisky Experience was another instance where paying for a more comprehensive guided experience made a substantial difference and taught me practical lessons I will use for the rest of my life in ways high school algebra never will.
For the Highlands, check the precise excursion you're booking. Tour operators may offer different routes, activities, and optional additions, and a day trip covering hundreds of miles is something you should understand before committing to it fully. It’s an exceptionally long, but rewarding day.
And for highly rated restaurants with sought-after views, particularly sunset dining, reservations well in advance are a good idea.
The flexibility, and in some cases pure luck, we enjoyed in Edinburgh was wonderful, but I wouldn't build an entire vacation around the assumption that somebody will cancel their rooftop dinner reservation mere moments before you walk through the door.
The City I'd Return To Tomorrow
When I think about Edinburgh now, I don't think first about checking attractions off a list.
I think about the feeling of being there.
The narrow streets and imposing stone buildings. The castle towering above the city. The paths and green spaces that break up the urban landscape. The pubs tucked into neighborhood streets. The conversations with bartenders, drivers, restaurant owners, and people (and doppelgangers) we met along the way.
I think about a city that offered plenty of spectacular things to see without ever feeling like a place that existed solely for tourists. I think about its authenticity.
And I think about how comfortable I felt there.
I'm the kind of traveler who has a habit of visiting somewhere and beginning to wonder: Should I live here? Do I need to start looking at real estate?
Edinburgh definitely inspired that thought almost immediately.
I'm the kind of traveler who has a habit of visiting somewhere and beginning to wonder: Should I live here? Do I need to start looking at real estate?
Edinburgh definitely inspired that thought almost immediately.
I can't point to one precise moment when I realized I loved the city. It may have been while walking around Old Town beneath the castle, surrounded by architecture that was almost impossibly beautiful. Or it may have been another friendly conversation with somebody who simply made a first-time visitor feel welcomed.
More likely, it was the accumulation of all those things. I don’t know for sure.
What I do know is exactly what I'd do if I returned tomorrow.
I'd arrive at a rental somewhere in Stockbridge and put my bags down. I’d make myself a cocktail out of ingredients acquired thanks to the UK’s generous duty-free import policies. I’d take stock of the property and unpack my things. Then I'd head out to pick up groceries and supplies for the week at the Tesco Superstore on Broughton Road. I’d get everything settled back at the apartment, and start feeling at home again.
And once all of those basic necessities were taken care of?
I'd head straight to The Antiquary Bar for a few good Scottish pints and a proper pub dinner.
I literally can close my eyes and picture it.
That's how I know Edinburgh is somewhere I'll return.
Not because I left with a list of things to do I still need to check off, although there are plenty of those. Not even because the history, architecture, and scenery are so extraordinary.
It's because Edinburgh gave me something that isn't guaranteed when you travel somewhere you’ve never been before.
It made me feel welcome. It made me feel I belonged there.
And sometimes, that's the thing that stays with you longest.